 |
» 2010-05-24
2 members + 4 sherpas reached on Summit of Mt. Eve...
» 2010-05-24
Chhiring Dorje Sherpa, 4 members and 1 Climbing Sh...
|
 |
|
The Dhaulagiri massif lies to the west of the Kali Gandaki River in West Nepal. For the first time half of this century Nepal was closed to outsiders and it was not until after 1949 that the remote areas of Western Nepal were explored for the first time. The topography of the Dhaula Himal is very complex and has often given rise to confusion. On one occasion, for instance, an expedition attempting –as they thought – an ascent of Dhaulagiri IV, later realized that they had in fact tried Dhaulagiri VI!
In 1950, Maurice Herxzog's French expedition, explored various eastern approaches above the Kali Gandaki gorges and entered the Hidden valley, north of Tukuche, but unable to get to grips wit Dhaulagiri itself they re-crossed the river to make the first ascent of Annapurna to the east. This was the first 'eight- thousander' to be climbed and, one by one, the others followed – Everest, Nanga Parbat, K2, Cho oyu, Kanchangjunja and so on, until by the end of the nineteen-fifties only two of the fourteen remained virgin- Shisa Pangma and Dhaulagiri. The former was within forbidden Tibet, but Dhaulagiri has been tried by six expeditions and has repulsed them all. Finally, in 1960, Swiss mountaineer, Max Eiselin, led an international expedition and, using a light aircraft(which later crashed) to assist in transporting stores to the North East Col forced the ridge above it to the summit. It was a fine achievement and eight men reached the top.
Using a new approach route, Reinhold Messner Brought a small expedition to the awesome South Face in 1977, the white wall overlooking the Nepalese jungle. Desperately steep, it rises 13,000 feet (4000m) and is constantly swept by avalanche. Messner failed but a route was put up on the face by Japanese climbers the following year. In 1979 yet another Japanese expedition led by a woman Dr Michiko Takashashi after establishing intermediate camps completed a traverse over the summit of DII, DIII and DV, the first expedition to link three major Himalayan peaks.
|
| Itinerary |
| Day 01 |
Arrive Kathmandu |
| Day 02-04 |
Official formalities and other preparation |
| Day 05 |
Drive from KTM to Baglung |
| Day 06 |
Tatopani |
| Day 07 |
Ghasa |
| Day 08 |
Marpha |
| Day 09 |
Yak Kharka |
| Day 10 |
Kalopani |
| Day 11 |
French Col |
| Day 12 |
Base Camp |
| Day 13-53 |
Climbing |
| Day 54 |
Dhampus |
| Day 55 |
Marpha |
| Day 56 |
Ghasa |
| Day 57 |
Tatopani |
| Day 58 |
Baglung |
| Day 59 |
Drive to Kathmandu |
| Day 60 |
Kathmandu |
| Day 61 |
Departure from Kathmandu |
|
|
